Embroidery and hemstitching machine



Feb. 9, 1937. J. OLLENDORFF EMBROIDERY AND HEMSTITCHING MACHINE 5 Sheet's-Sheet 1 Filed Oct. 5, 1934 mto u {f Wanna Feb, 9, 1937. J. OI LLENDORFF I EMBROIDERY AND HEMSTITCHING MACHINE Filed Oct. 5, 1934 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 Feb. 9, 1937. J.IOLLENDORFF ,0

EMBROIDERY AND HEMSTITCHING MACHINE Filed 001;. 5, 1934. 5 Sheets-Sheet 3 Feb. 9, 1937.

J. OLLENDORFF EMBROIDERY AND HEMSTITCHING MACHINE Filed dot. 5, 1934' 5 Sheets-Sheet 4 QJLQLMA (104% mp v0 -Q J. OLLENDORFF 2,070,449

EMBROEIDERY AND HEMST'ITCHING MACHINE Filed Oct, 5,-1934 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 Patented Feb. 9, 1937 UNETEE STATES PATENT GFFIQE EMBROIDERY AND HEMSTITCHING MACHINE France Application October 5, 1934, Serial No. 747,062 In France October 6, 1933 6 Claims.

The present invention relates to embroidery machines, and more particularly to those producing fancy hemstitching, on that portion of a fabric from which the threads have previously been drawn, by uniting the remaining threads by means of stitches.

The most popularof these effects are usually called Turkish hemstitch or double Turkish hemstitch.

They can also be produced without having previously drawn the threads. The elfect thus obtained is different but the stitch formation is the same.

The machines known up to the present for the production of such work are equipped with an oscillating needle and a hook having movable position, the desired effect being obtained by the combination of the movements of the needle, the hook and the material, said movement being determined by suitable cams; the hook moves at the same time as the needle so as to be always opposite the latter when the loop is taken.

Such an arrangement as a movable hook is a mechanical complication; it is further responsible for the relatively low speed of the machine.

Finally, the known machines are not capable of producing in one operation a complicated hemstitch such as the double Turkish hemstitch.

There exist, moreover, embroidery machines with two oscillating needles, co-operating with two hooks fixed in position. However, the machines of this type known up to the present time, which can work at high speed, only produce simple embroidery work, such for example as ladder hemstitch.

The object of the present invention is to improve such embroidery machines with a view to making them suitable for producing simple and double Turkish hemstitch.

These improvements consist essentially in substituting for the ordinary driving cams included in such machines, cams of a profile and driven at a speed of rotation such that during the course of one revolution of the main shaft, the needles make the desired number of oscillations in order to present their thread loops to the hooks and thus cause the formation of stitches, uniting the different bars of thread, which limit the design of an elementary fancy hemstitch to be produced, while the fabric during this time has a corresponding number of forward and backward movements in order to present to the oscillating needle those points of its surface, where the sewing threads are to be placed.

Machines for producing fancy hemstitch thus obtained from embroidery machines with oscillating needles and hooks fixed in position are greatly superior, from the point of view of their output and their mechanical simplicity, to fancy hemstitch machines with a movable hook known up to the present. Further, they are capable of producing double hemstitching in one operation.

For producing simple hemstitching the machine is equipped with only one oscillating needle and one hook.

By modifying the form of the cams, and the relation of their speed of rotation to that of the main shaft, it is possible to obtain different hemstich effects.

The present invention also includes a modification made to the machine above mentioned with a view to avoiding the return of the needle at every stitch to the position known as loop taking position, and thereby facilitating the work. This modification consists in arranging the hooks in a known manner, so that the rotation of the points of these hooks is effected, either in tangential relation to the plane of oscillation of the needles of the machine, or in parallel relation to this plane.

The following description with reference to the appended drawings given by Way of example will readily show how the invention can be realized.

Fig. 1 is an elevation of a double Turkish hemstitch machine in accordance with the invention.

Fig. 2 is a side view.

Fig. 3 is a plan view of the cam controlling the forward movement of the feeder.

Fig. 4 is a plan view of the cam controlling the up and down movements of the feeder.

Fig. 5 shows an elevational view of a part of a single-needle Turkish hemstitch machine.

Fig. 6 shows a tension arrangement for the fabric.

Fig. '7 is a diagram of a simple Turkish hemstitch.

Fig. 8 is a diagram of double Turkish hemstitch.

Fig. 9 shows the development of the cam controlling the oscillation of the needles of the Turkish hemstitch machine (single or double).

Fig. 10 shows the development of a modified cam more particularly suitable for the double Turkish hemstitch machine.

Fig. 11 shows a detail of Fig. 2.

Fig. 12 is a detailed view of the cam controlling the oscillation of the needles.

Fig. 13 shows in plan View the disposition of the hooks in a 2-needle machine in the case of the rotation of their points in tangential relation to the plane of the needles.

Fig. 14 is a similar view in a machine with one needle and one hook.

Fig. 15 shows in plan view the disposition of the hook in the machine with one needle in the case of the rotation of the point of the hook in a plane parallel to the plane of oscillation of the needle.

Fig. 16 shows a development of the cam controlling the oscillation of the needle in the case of single or double Turkish hemstitch machines.

Fig. 1 shows the cast iron frame of the machine comprising the arm I and the base 2.

The main shaft 3 derives its movement from a wheel not shown but located at 4. The left hand portion of main shaft 3 is not shown. It comprises known systems for driving the jointed takeup and the needle bar 5.

The main shaft drives, in a known manner the lower shaft 6, by means of vertical shaft 1 and by means of pairs of gears 8, 9; H], II, and lower shaft 6 drives hooks l2 and I3 by means of pairs of gears M, l5; IE, IT.

The feeding of the material is effected by feeder l8, acting in conjunction with presser foot 19. This feeder I8 is fitted to the machine by the usual well known means, namely the feeder holder 85 (Fig. 2), joined at one of its extremities to lever 86 and at its other extremity to lever 81, by means of step bearing 88, sliding in fork 89.

The longitudinal and vertical movements of the feeder are controlled respectively on the one hand from cam 20 (roller 8i by the play of the levers and connections 2|, 22, 23 and 86 (Figs. 2 and 11) for the longitudinal movement and from cam 33 (roller 82), by the play of levers and connections 3!, 32, 33 and 8'! (Figs. 2 and 11) for the vertical movement.

The oscillation of the needles 40 and 4!, which are strictly symmetrical with respect to needle bar shaft 5, is controlled in a known manner,

' shown as an example, from cam 42, roller E i and lever 83 '(Fig. 12), by connection 46, regulating sector 41, connection 44 and the jointed parallelogram 43. The extremities 48 and 39 of the parallelogram act on rods 50 and 5!, which cause the oscillation of the needle bars 68 and 6| around their shafts 62 and 63.

In order to produce the double Turkish hemstitch, shaft 52 carrying the cams should revolve at a speed which is one eighth of that of the main shaft 3.

For this purpose, an intermediate shaft 53 is interposed between shafts 3 and 52, bearing two toothed wheels 54 and 55. Shaft 3 bears a toothed wheel 56, meshing with wheel 54, with a gear ratio of 3 to 8 and shaft 52 bears a toothed wheel 5?, meshing with wheel 55 with a gear ratio of 3 to 1, with the result that the speed of shaft 52 is one eighth of that of shaft 3.

On the other hand, the shape of cams 20, 3E! and 42 produces, by the movement of the feeder and the oscillation of the needles the following combinations including a cycle of eight movements which can be followed by the shape of cams 2!) (Fig.3), 35 (Fig. 4) and 42 (Fig. 9).

First operation-The needles being very close to each other and almost in contact penetrate at 0.6 the fabric, of which the longitudinal threads have been drawn between the two threads AA and BB. As soon as the points of the needles have penetrated the fabric, the needles move from the line EE and FF to plane XX and YY at the loop taking point, where the hooks l2 and 13 can seize by their points the thread loops presented by the needles. Then the needles rise above the fabric and the latter is carried by the feeder in direction F for a distance equal tothe distance between 8-! (see zone 9-! on cams Figs. 3 and 9).

Second operation-The needles being again close together and almost in contact, they penetrate at l, l and at the loop taking point move to position XX and YY and then rise. The fabric is then carried in direction R for a distance equal to l-2 (zone l-2 on cams Figs. 3 and 9).

Third operation-The needles close together penetrate at 2-2 then go to the loop taking point and rise again. The fabric is carried in direction F for a distance of 2-3(zone 2-3 on cams Figs. 3 and 9).

Fourth operation-The needles still close together penetrate at 3-3 then travel to the loop taking point after which the thread bar between 2-2 and 3-3 is definitely caught by the thread which winds around it. The feeder then carries the work slightly in the direction R, corresponding to the longitudinal projection 3-4. Then it descends, releases the. work (RS Fig. 4) and then rises to renew contact with the latter after having moved backwards for a distance corresponding to half the distance d which separates the two thread bars (zone 3-4 Figs. 3 and 9).

Fifth operation-The needles separated from each other penetrate at 5-4 on the lines CC and DD. As soon as the points have penetrated the material they move. closer to each other to arrive at XX and YY at the loop taking point. Then, they rise and the material is carried in direction F for a distance equal to 5-5 (zone 4-5 Figs. 3 and 9).

Sixth operation-The needles penetrate at 5-5, arrive at the loop taking point, rise, and the work is carried in direction R for a distance equal to 5-6 (zone 5-6 Figs. 3 and 9).

Seventh Operation-The needles penetrate at 3-6. Loop taking point at XX and YY. Needles then rise. Material carried in direction F for a distance equal to 6-! (zone 6-7, Figs. 3 and 9).

Eighth operation-The needles penetrate at (-1. Loop taking point at XX and YY after which the thread bars held between 6 and l are definitely caught. The feeder then slightly car ries the material in direction R, corresponding to the longitudinal projection 1-8. Then it descends, releases the work, rises again and resumes contact with it, after having moved backwards for a distance corresponding to half the distance d which separates two rings (zone 1-8 Figs. 3 and 9). Then the same cycle recommences, the needles penetrating at 8-8 as they did at 8-9 at the beginning of the preceding cycle.

Fig. 10 represents a modification of the form of the cam controlling the oscillation of the needles.

According to this modification the taking of the loop is effected at the exterior or outside position of oscillation of the needles.

Under these circumstances, in the course of the four successive points to the separated position, the needles do not oscillate and work vertically. In the other four points of the cycle, (close position) they descend point to point and separate as soon as their points reach the material and then proceed to the loop taking position. Then they come together again to make the next stitch.

Fig. 10 illustrates this variation, owing to which the work is facilitated for double Turkish hemstitch of great width for certain fabrics.

Fig. 5 shows the application of the same principlesto a machine with one needle, for Turkish hemstitch. This makes possible the production at high speed of Turkish hemstitch (Fig. 7) which up to the present has only been obtained on machines having a relatively low speed by reason of their mobile hook.

In this machine, the general arrangement of the mechanism and of the cams is the same as for the two-needle machine (Fig. 1) but shaft 6 only drives a single hook (hook I3). As regards its single needle, this is controlled from sector 41, as in Fig. 1, by connection 44, acting on lever Ill, which communicates its oscillating movement to needle bar II. This system is moreover well known.

Fig. '7 shows the. different positions of the needle in the cycle of eight points necessary to the formation of the Turkish hemstitch, assuming that the work is done with hook I 3, located at the right of the needle, FF being the position of penetration of the material to the left, DD the position of penetration to the right and YY the loop taking position. The same cycles as in the case of a two-needle machine are. reproduced, resulting in the formation of alternating thread bars (2-3 and 6-4) and consequently a Turkish hemstitch.

Fig. 6 shows a modification applicable to both single and double needle machines comprising the addition to the system of feeding by feeder and foot, of a presser foot for the purpose of maintaining and stretching the fabric during the hemstitching operation. The presser foot 15 surrounds foot shoes 16 carried by foot presser l9. It can, with advantage, be equipped with a rubber ring of conical shape 11 for the purpose of stretching the material when coming in contact with same. By means of an appropriate mechanism, comprising for example a cam similar to that shown on Fig. 4 and moved synchronously therewith controlling foot 15 is maintained in a raised position above the work as long as the feeder is engaging same. The moment the feeder descends below the needle plate, the same mechanism slightly raises the foot shoes 16 which leave the fabric and cause foot 15 to descend, which while supporting the material stretches it, restoring in this manner the threads, drawn in the fabric, into positions advantageous for continuing the work.

It need hardly be said that the means above described are not the only ones possible and that in particular the shape and speed of rotation of the cams could be modified, either for the production of the same kinds of hemstitching as those described, or for the production of new hemstitches without departing from the spirit of the invention.

For example, in the Turkish hemstitch machine, it is clear that the same results could be obtained by providing each of the cams with two profiles identical with those described, placed one following the other on the periphery of the cam and by running the shaft carrying these cams at a of the speed of the main shaft, etc.

According to Fig. 13 the two hooks l2 and i3 revolving about stationary axes are so arranged that the rotation of their points is ef fected in tangential relation-with the plane AA, in which the needles oscillate, said needles piercing the fabric at the plane EE and FF, at the close positions and CC DD at the separated positions.

The loops are caught by the hooks in the plane AA without it being necessary for the needles to return to a special position for taking the loops.

In machines with one needle the rotation of the point c of the hook also takes place, either in tangential relation with the plane AA of oscillation of the needle, as shown by Fig. 14, or in a plane parallel to AA, as shown by Fig. 15, and the loop is caught in planes FF DD. The cam controlling the oscillation of the needles comprises, as shown on Figure 16, eight portions, portions !l to 4 corresponding to the separated position of the needles (work planes CC DD) and portions 4-8 corresponding to the close positions in which the needles are located close to each other (work planes EE FF). This cam is also suitable for the machine with one needle.

What I claim is:

1. A machine of the type described which comprises, in combination, a frame, a main shaft journalled in said frame, a needle carrier movable vertically in said frame, means operative by said main shaft for reciprocating said needle carrier in the vertical direction with respect to said frame, at least one needle pivoted to said carrier about a horizontal axis, means, including a cam driven by said main shaft at a speed equal to one eighth of the speed of revolution of said main shaft, for oscillating said needle with respect to said carrier, at least one hook, rotatable in 'said frame and adapted to cooperate with said needle, operatively connected with said shaft, a feeder movable in said frame both vertically and horizontally, the latter movement being in a direction parallel to the axis of oscillation of said needle. means, including a cam driven by said shaft at a speed equal to one eighth of the speed of revolution of said shaft, for imparting up and down movements to said feeder, and means, including a cam driven by said shaft at a speed equal to one eighth of the speed of revolution of said shaft, for imparting horizontal displacements to said feeder.

2. A machine of the type described which com-.

prises, in combination, a frame, a main shaft journalled in said frame, a needle carrier movable vertically in said frame, means operative by said main shaft for reciprocating said needle carrier in the vertical direction with respect to said frame, two needles pivoted in said carrier about parallel horizontal axes respectively, means, including a cam driven by said main shaft at a speed equal to one eighth of the speed of revolution of said shaft, for oscillating said needles about their respective axes with respects to said carrier, two hooks, rotatable in said frame and adapted to cooperate with said needles respectively, operatively connected with said shaft, a feeder movable in said frame both vertically and horizontally, the latter movement being in a direction parallel to the axes of oscillation of said needles, means, including a cam driven by said shaft at a speed equal to one eighth of the speed of revolution of said shaft, for imparting up and down movements to said feeder, and means, including a cam driven by said shaft at a speed equal to one eighth of the speed of revolution of said shaft, for imparting horizontal displacements to said feeder.

3. A machine of the type described which comprises, in combination, a frame, a main shaft journalled in said frame, a needle carrier movable vertically in said frame, means operative by said main shaft for reciprocating said needle carrier in the vertical direction with respect to said frame, two needles pivoted to said carrier about parallel horizontal axes respectively, means, including a cam driven by said main shaft at a speed equal to one eighth of the speed of revolution of said shaft, for oscillating said needles about their respective axes with respect to said carrier, said cam being so shaped as to produce no oscillation of the needles for four out of the eight eighths of one revolution of said cam, two hooks, rotatable in said frame and adapted. to cooperate with said needles respectively, operatively connected with said shaft, a feeder movable in said frame both vertically and horizontally; the latter movement being in a direction parallel to the axes of oscillation of said needles, means, including a cam driven by said shaft at a speed equal to one eighth of the speed of revolution of said shaft, for imparting up and down movements to said feeder, and means, including a cam driven by said shaft at a speed equal to one eighth of the speed of revolution of said shaft, for imparting horizontal reciprocating displacements to said feeder.

4.. A machine according to claim 3 in which the development of the outline of the first mentioned cam is rectilinear over one half of the length thereof.

5. A machine of the type described which comprises, in combination, a frame, a main shaft journalled in said frame, a needle carrier movable vertically in said frame, means operative by said main shaft for reciprocating said needle carrier in the vertical direction with respect to said frame, at least one needle pivoted to said carrier about a horizontal axis, means, including a cam driven by said main shaft at a speed equal to one ighth of the speed of revolution of said main shaft, for oscillating said needle with respect to said carrier, at least one hook, rotatable in said frame tangentially to the plane in which said needle oscillates and. adapted to cooperate with said needle, operatively connected with said shaft, a feeder movable in said frame both vertically and horizontally, the latter movement being in a direction parallel to the axis of oscillation of said needle, means, including a cam driven by said shaft at a speed equal to one eighth of the speed of revolution of said shaft, for imparting up and down movements to said feeder, and means, including a cam driven by said shaft at a speed equal to one eighth of the speed of revolution of said shaft, for imparting horizontal reciprocating displacements to said feeder.

6. A machine of the type described which comprises, in combination, a frame, a main shaft journalled in said frame, a needle carrier movable vertically in said frame, means operative by said main shaft for reciprocating said needle carrier in the vertical direction with respect to said frame, at least one needle pivoted to said carrier about a horizontal axis, means, including a cam driven by said main shaft at a speed equal to one eighth of the speed of revolution of said shaft, for oscillating said needle With respect to said carrier, at least one hook, rotatable in said frame about an axis parallel to the axis of pivotment of said needle and adapted to cooperate with said needle, operatively connected with said shaft, a feeder movable in said frame both vertically and horizontally, the latter movement being in a direction parallel to the axis of oscillation of said needle, means, including a cam driven by said shaft at a speed equal to one eighth of the speed of revolution of said shaft, for imparting up and down movements to said feeder, and means, including a cam driven by said shaft at a speed equal to one eighth of the speed of revolution of said shaft, for imparting horizontal reciproeating displacements to said feeder.

JACQUES OLLENDORFF. 

